Kumano Kodo trail hike

Hiking the Kumano Kodo trail was a mutual favorite part of our vacation in Japan. We elected to follow the hike and itinerary that the Kumano Travel website suggested for the Nakahechi, Hongu, and Nachi portions of the Kumano Kodo. That itinerary packs the best sights and hikes into a few days.

I will warn you, though, that I must disagree with the Kumano Travel website's characterization of the hikes on this itinerary as being short and suitable for beginners. The type of trails and steep climbs involved would be absolutely unsuitable for obese or unfit people. Walking up the Daimon-Zaka stairs would be dangerous for someone without good cardiorespiratory fitness, in my opinion. We were able to complete and enjoy these hikes but I had an easier time than my wife with the Daimon-Zaka portion, as I had been exercising regularly beforehand.

Following that itinerary, we visited the two Grand Shrines (Kumano Hongu Taisha & Kumano Nachi Taisha) along short and scenic walks. We lodged for one night each at a hot spring village in the mountains (Kawayu Onsen) and on the coast (Katsuura). I cover those two places of lodging (Kawayu Midoriya and Hotel Charmant) on separate pages. But on this page I cover our experience hiking these portions of the Kumano Kodo.

We did not need a guide to hike these portions of the Kumano Kodo trail. We got by fine using the guidance on the Kumano Travel website and the pamphlets the Tanabe Tourist Information Center provided. At the Tanabe Tourist Information Center they also spoke fluent English and were quite helpful.

These few days we spent in Wakayama Prefecture to hike the Kumano Kodo were a good way to get away from the crowds and hubbub of the cities. In the quiet, low-key towns of Kawayu and Katsuura where we lodged, it was quiet and peaceful. 

Dropping our suitcases off at the Kumano Travel Support Center in Tanabe worked well. They arranged for a luggage shuttle service to transport our suitcases to our lodging in Kawayu (Kawayu Midoriya) the same day. In fact, Kawayu Midoriya had our suitcases waiting for us in our room when we arrived! 

Pay close attention to signs on the Kumano Kodo.
Many are less obvious than this one.

If you have anything larger than a small backpack, I recommend using the luggage shuttle service or some other such option. Other passengers who boarded the bus with us from Kii-Tanabe station brought their large suitcases and backpacks and put them in the aisle. That made it more dangerous for everyone, not to mention keeping other passengers from being able to fit on the bus. I found that rude. Please don't do that.

Oh, and as for taking buses from Kii-Tanabe, buy your tickets in advance from the Tanabe Tourist Information Center and get in line for the bus early—as in 30 to 45 minutes early, not 10 minutes early. There were far more passengers in line than each bus could accommodate, which made for conflicts, frustration, and bad behavior from the ill-mannered around us. Getting in line early would help to ensure you get a seat rather than have to stand for two hours on the bus ride like I did. And it will also help to ensure that you actually get to board the bus rather than get left behind—like the jackass who tried unsuccessfully to cut in front of us in line.
When you walk the Kumano Kodo trail, don't make assumptions! There are many forks in the trails and paved paths and I caught my wife about to take a wrong turn one or more times. And I saw other hikers make that mistake. We would have been pretty lost and screwed if we took a wrong turn. So pay close attention whenever you encounter:

1. A fork in the path/trail/road, or
2. A sign of any kind (even writing on some post that doesn't look like a sign)

The paved trail took us through bucolic villages in the mountains with tea gardens.

Our hotel Kawayu Midoriya had a shuttle bus that dropped us off at Hosshinmon-Oji in the morning. We then hiked to Kumano Hongu Taisha. It was a beautiful, delightful hike through forests, mountains, and villages. There were no flying insects that bothered us, so we didn't need to apply bug repellant.

See the smoke? We could smell the villagers
roasting tea leaves. What an aroma!

 

We were glad we took an optional, short but steep hike to get a little higher as
we got to enjoy these spectacular views from the mountaintop.
The photos do not quite do it justice.

In Hongu, we enjoyed our lunch at Kumano.Co Shokudo restaurant. It was delicious. It's a one minute walk from the Oyunohara site on this hike.

The second, shorter day of hiking, up the Daimon-Zaka stairs and to Nachi was also wonderful. The forests, trails, huge trees, bamboo groves, mountainside views, beautiful Japanese style gardens, and the tallest waterfall in Japan made for a wonderful day. We didn't even mind that it rained on us a bit. 

At the start of the Daimon-Zaka hike between the huge "husband and wife" trees.

The Daimon-Zaka stairs up the mountain were steep and treacherous. Not for the unfit or nervous. But enjoyable nonetheless.

Once we got up the Daimon-Zaka and subsequent mountainside stairs, we were treated to fabulous views.